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I have fielded this question from multiple people, and I know from my own sales data that many people are not using a toner, or not regularly. Perhaps more information is needed to convince you to include a toner in your daily regimen. When you're using the right one, you won't want to be without it.
In some product lines, toners are used to balance the pH of the skin or finish the cleansing process because many cleansers are alkaline or strip the lipid bi-layer (acid mantle). In Dermalogica, however, the cleansers are already acid balanced so a toner is not needed to restore the acidity of the skin. Dermalogica toners add additional moisture to the skin, but more importantly, help transport the next product (ideally a treatment serum) deeper into the epidermis. The deeper into the epidermis active ingredients travel, the more effective they are. So, think of a Dermalogica toner as a product booster; you'll get more bang for your buck out of your treatment serum. Toners can also be used to refresh and hydrate as needed throughout the day, even over makeup. In the Dermalogica line, there are 5 toner formulas to choose from based on skin type or benefits desired. Multi-Active Toner- An ultra-light spritz that refreshes and hydrates the skin while smoothing the surface. Helps condition skin to prepare for proper moisture absorption Antioxidant Hydramist- A refreshing antioxidant shield with flash-firming properties to improve skin texture, fight damaging free radicals and intensely hydrate dry, dehydrated skin. UltraCalming Mist- A soothing, hydrating mist that quickly relieves sensitivity while helping to calm redness, stinging and aggravated skin. Redness Relief Essence- Lightweight like a toner but concentrated like a serum, the refreshing formula visibly reduces redness and helps reduce sensitivity by strengthening the skin's moisture barrier. Breakout Clearing All-Over Toner- For teens, this toner contains several botanicals, including salicylic acid, that help reduce oil and bacteria to clear breakouts. Application note: instead of spritzing directly on skin, you can spritz a cotton ball and wipe it over your skin. I'd be happy to advise you on which formula is right for you!
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Dermalogica’s newest addition to the AGE Smart line, Phyto-Nature Firming Serum, claims to “give 5 years back”. Phyto-Nature Firming Serum targets premature skin aging resulting from our environment. As Dermalogica puts it, “your exposome (environment + lifestyle) adds years to your skin’s visible age”. While regular skin treatments and proper home care can do wonders for skin aging, our environment and lifestyle can do just as much harm. Other factors that affect skin aging include excess sun, poor sleep quality or lack of sleep, unhealthy diet, and smoking. When Dermalogica released Phyto-Nature Firming Serum, I was surprised at the price. However, it made more sense after reading about the product. Phyto-Nature Firming Serum is actually two serums in one. To clarify, it’s a “dual-phased formula” which takes effect in two phases, the lifting phase and the firming phase. There are actually two compartments in the product’s bottle, so the two serums are separate until use. What’s in it:
Phyto-Nature Firming Serum doesn’t serve as a replacement to other anti-aging products, but rather, as a complement. It can be used under any retinol product as well as with Dermalogica’s Power Rich moisturizer. Phyto-Nature Firming Serum is currently the company’s most advanced serum. Phyto-Nature Firming Serum is an innovative product, fitting for such an environmentally conscious community. This product truly represents Dermalogica’s values as a cruelty-free company that strives to use naturally occurring and safe ingredients. After 1 application, it “doubles skin’s luminosity and minimizes the appearance of fine lines”. After 4 weeks, it “reduces visible wrinkles”. This post was written by Rachel Strang, Cindy's salon assistant who is a sophomore at the University of Iowa.  On August 27, I went to IDI Chicago to train in the new Pro Power Peel. My skin was double cleansed, then the peel treatment began. Step 1 is a solution that degreases the skin for even penetration of the peeling solutions. Then 3 peel solutions were applied layer by layer and a 4th solution was used as a spot treatment on a few acne lesions. The peel treatment is finished by neutralizing the peeling agents and applying UltraCalm products and sunscreen. The photo gallery shows the initial scabbing that occurred in a few spots. Hard to see is the shedding of dead skin that began the day after the peel. By the last pics, on Sept. 2, you can see how all the scabbing is gone and how clear my skin became. barrier defense booster Concentrated oil booster soothes, nourishes and moisturizes to restore balance to sensitive skin. Triple Defense Complex nourishes the skin, relieves dryness and reinforces barrier integrity against future irritation. Squalane locks in moisture while soothing Oat Oil helps combat sensitivity and support healthy-looking skin. Use prior to, or mix with, your moisturizer for UltraCalming™ benefits. benefits: Reinforces the skin’s naturally-protective barrier against environmental assault. Nourishes and soothes irritated skin. Helps prevent skin irritation before it starts. how to use: Dispense 6-10 drops into palm and rub hands together. Pat gently over face, neck and chest. Or, mix with your moisturizer, then apply. Use twice a day for continuous relief. quick tip: Use in conjunction with Calm Water Gel to restore moisture and prevent dehydration. calm water gel Weightless water-gel moisturizer hydrates dry, sensitive skin. Refreshing gel formula transforms into a skin-quenching fluid upon application, forming a weightless barrier against environmental assault. Dual Hyaluronic Acid technology works in different skin surface layers to increase and lock in moisture. Apple Fruit Extract and Glycerin hydrate and soften while defending skin against dryness. Cactus Pear Extract helps soothe sensitivity and imparts water-binding properties to help support healthy moisture balance. benefits: Provides immediate hydration to dry, irritated skin. Softens, soothes and calms. Locks in moisture and defends skin against dryness. how to use: Squeeze a small amount into palm and rub hands together to activate. Pat gently onto face and neck. Use twice a day for continuous relief  Despite a wealth of knowledge about prevention, skin cancer cases are increasing, especially in those 15-29 years old. In this post I offer some basic information about skin cancer. Disclaimer: I am not a medical professional and cannot diagnose skin cancer. I do, however, pay attention to lesions that show characteristics of skin cancer and advise my clients to have them checked by a doctor or help them monitor the lesions for changes. All of the following information was gleaned from various sources including The Skin Cancer Foundation, The National Cancer Institute, American Academy of Dermatology, Skin, Inc, and Mary Kay, Inc. What is skin cancer? The National Cancer Institute defines skin cancer as a disease in which cancer cells are found in the outer layers (epidermis) of the skin. The epidermis is comprised mainly of flat, scaly cells called squamous cells; round cells called basal cells; and melanocytes which are the cells that produce melanin. The 3 main types of skin cancer are named for the cells they affect: Squamous Cell Carcinoma, Basal Cell Carcinoma, and Melanoma. Basal Cell Carcinoma • most common form of skin cancer in most ethnic groups • more than 2 million cases diagnosed annually • slow growing and seldom spreads to other parts of the body • typically found on areas exposed to the sun such as head, face, arms & hands • primary risk factor is amount of UV exposure • watch for translucent lesions with irregular, and possible raised, borders and tiny blood vessels through them Squamous Cell Carcinoma • 2nd most common skin cancer in most ethnic groups • 700,000 new cases annually • rarely spread to other body parts, but more commonly so than basal cell carcinoma • found mainly on areas exposed to the sun but can form in mouth lips, and genitals • UV exposure is the primary risk factor for most ethnic groups, but not for people of African descent. In that population the main risk factors are skin conditions that result in scarring or chronic inflammation such as leprosy, burn scars, radiation therapy, and physical trauma to the skin. • characterized by irregular, crusted, red papules (bumps) that don't go away; they often look like warts. Melanoma, aka Cutaneous Melanoma or Malignant Melanoma • least common but most dangerous form of skin cancer across all ethnic groups • more than 87,000 cases of melanoma are expected to be diagnosed in 2017 • CAN spread to other organs through the blood or lymph system • Melanoma lesions can appear anywhere, even under finger or toenails and soles of feet. • Lesions can start as a flat or raised pigmented area. • The overall 5-year survival rate for patients whose melanoma is detected early, before the tumor has spread to regional lymph nodes or other organs, is about 98 percent in the US. The survival rate falls to 62 percent when the disease reaches the lymph nodes, and 18 percent when the disease metastasizes to distant organs. • Know the ABCDE's and have a doctor examine any spot with these characteristics: Asymmetry; Border (irregular or poorly defined); Color (can be varied shades of brown, black, red, blue or white- watch for change of color); Diameter (larger than 6 mm); and Evolving (spot that changes in size, shape, or color). Also have checked any mole that feels hard, lumpy or swollen, is tender to the touch, bleeds, or oozes. • Daily use of sunscreen cuts your risk in HALF. Check your whole body annually. You can print out a mole map and keep track of your spots. If any lesion/spot looks suspicious, see a doctor for diagnosis. You'll find much more in depth information on the websites linked below. Skincancer.org American Academy of Dermatology BODY MOLE MAP These are just a few images of skin cancer lesions. The appearance of lesions varies widely. Consult a doctor about any lesions on your skin that concern you. Parabens in cosmetics
Have you ever seen a product labeled "paraben free" or read something about the paraben controversy? It has been a hot topic in the beauty industry for several years now. Like mineral oil, I think parabens are getting a bad rap so I wanted to offer a little education on the topic. What are parabens? Parabens are a class of preservatives which are naturally derived, organic, and have been used for over 80 years in thousands of products we use every day, including beauty products and food. In fact, numerous fruits and vegetables, including blueberries, carrots, cucumbers, and raspberries produce parabens to protect themselves from bacterial attacks. Why are preservatives used in beauty products? Preservatives are absolutely essential in topical product formulations to keep the product from becoming a bacteria breeding ground. Product labels that claim a product is "preservative free" might be misleading you. Every cosmetic product containing water (which is a LOT of them) simply has to have something in it that inhibits yeast, mold and bacteria growth or you'd have to throw it away in a few days. There are products that don't contain water or contain certain essential oils or have a pH level that inhibits organism growth and, therefore, don't need preservatives added. There are numerous preservatives formulators have to choose from; some are manmade and some come from nature (ex. honeysuckle extract). Why is there a controversy about parabens specifically? Parabens have been under attack since 2004 when a study by Philippa Darbre, Ph.D., was published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology. That study showed paraben-like substances in breast cancer tissue. Apparently, the media jumped on this "headline" and ran with it and the public's fear has had a major impact on the beauty industry. Never mind the fact that the experiment included no control group (the study never should have been published because of this) and the author never claimed that parabens, applied topically, were the cause of the tumors. Because of the extreme consumer backlash against parabens, many manufacturers (including Dermalogica) are moving away from using parabens despite the scientific data supporting their safety and efficacy. Unfortunately, some of the alternative preservatives need to be added in higher concentrations, can be more irritating to the skin, and can drive up the cost of the products. My opinion after consulting many different sources, is that parabens are safe in cosmetic preparations. As a skin therapist, it irks me that consumer opinion based on creative marketing and misinformation can sway an entire industry away from sound science and safe ingredients. You can research it and decide what's best for you. Be sure to consider the source and whether financial gain could influence the information. Below are links to a few of the articles I read. http://www.americanspa.com/americanspa/spa-treatments/paraben-paradox http://www.dermalinstitute.com/us/library/27_article_To_Paraben_or_Not_to_Paraben.html http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/ingredients/The-Current-State-of-Preservatives-213883861.html http://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productandingredientsafety/selectedcosmeticingredients/ucm128042.htm Most of the time when someone tells me they don't like their eyeliner, I end up finding out it's because of user error. Same is usually true when someone tells me they don't wear eyeliner because "it doesn't go on right" or 'it's too dry". There are many eyeliner formulations on the market today- wooden pencil, mechanical pencil, chubby crayon, microliner, cream, gel, mousse, and liquid. You can also swipe a damp eyeliner brush across powdered eye color and use as liner. So, there's a form for everyone to claim as their favorite and mastering multiple forms will enable you to execute different eye looks with ease. Read on for just a few tips that solve some common issues.
Crayon is dry- assuming your crayon isn't dry due to old age, you might just need to warm it up a bit before applying. Rub the crayon on your skin until the color glides on, using care to keep the point. Crayon skips, or you have trouble keeping the liner along your lashline- with one finger keeping your lid taught at the outer corner (be gentle, don't stretch!), apply in short strokes from the outer corner towards your nose. Think dashed lines, not a continuous line. Luis demonstrates this in the video. Start with a thin line, close to the base of your lashes and thicken by adding more lines until you get the look you want. Trouble creating the winged look- try drawing a regular line along your lashes first then from the outer corner draw towards the outer edge of your eyebrow, tapering to a point as you go. A winged look can be achieved with pretty much any form of eyeliner, but the best staying power tends to be with gel or liquid liner which also have fine tipped applicators. If using a pencil, the tip needs to be very pointed. If you have any more questions about eyeliner or other cosmetic application issues, please comment below or contact me via phone or email. In preparation for several new product launches in 2017, Dermalogica is phasing out quite a few products. If you see a product you like on the list, contact me soon to see if I can get it for you, as the company's inventory is selling out quickly.
Shave: Close Shave Oil, Invigorating Shave Gel, Pre-Shave Guard, Clean Bar Body Care: Stress Relief Treatment Oil, Body Hydrating Cream (8 oz only), Conditioning Body Wash (8 oz only), Exfoliating Body Scrub, Hydro Active Mineral Salts, Ultra Rich Body Cream Clear Start: Breakout Clearing Cool Masque, Breakout Clearing Daytime Treatment Gray Line: Extra Firming Booster, PreCleanse Wipes, Skin Refining Masque, Skin Renewal Booster MediBac: Concealing Spot Treatment, Skin Purifying Wipes The company has given no information about the new products, but I'm sure they will be great! |
Cindy ShawI am a licensed esthetician and own Renewal Skin & Body Center in Iowa City, IA. I love giving facials and other services that enhance one's appearance. Even more important is to educate people about skin-related services and products. Archives
April 2020
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